one more for now

right heres my attempt this year, hopefully better than last years http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d145/broady_6/t3and4%20calendar/P1070148Custom.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d145/broady_6/t3and4%20calendar/P1050956.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d145/broady_6/t3and4%20calendar/P10...

ill attach a full size one of mine this year

Well it depends which type you've got, the older ones are rebuild able (does it have a screw in the top) the later ones just have to be replaced. this is the bit your after http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Fuel-pump-for-108mm-dynamo-rod-Repro_act_shop.product_pID_125989_lang_EN_country_GB.htm?cru...

those items don't constitute good order, i think he means, valve clearances, compression test, ignition timing

You best bet is to look through the projects section as you will see cars in bare shell state and all the stages up to complete.

Also please dont type everything in caps. it makes it very difficult to read

I'm an admin in our club and 90% of the spam that tries to join is gmail

Well its a big job and you'll need to get hold of a single port manifold and heads. and im not even sure if the flange on a 34pict3 is the same size as the one on a SP manifold.

Have you stuck a wanted advert on here? Im sure someone could provide you with a pair of carbs quickish

The problem being the 1500 single car a were also single port. So that manifold won't fit a 1600. You could swap the heads or make your own manifold but neither are a quick fix.

What's broken for you to need a fix?

ive been running with out the cold mixing for a few years, the cars still gets plenty warm enough inside, so long as you have a well sealed heater system blowing the charge of warm air in

that would do it, but but some exhaust wrap around it to stop it burning through

you can get rebuild kits, vwh or machine 7 will sell them. but if its been stood and the flexis are old id change them and the brake fluid to!

no problem with fitting j tubes, just make sure you get type 3 ones. beetle ones rnt the same but im sure could be moded

i think your better of staying standard sizes, changing just the valve size will not make much different to the engine thanks for advice now need to find some one what can do me a valve job the heads i have are bare, well have valve guilds but no valves or springs thanks marc When you say valve job...

i think your better of staying standard sizes, changing just the valve size will not make much different to the engine

if your wanting to put bigger valves in then you will need your heads machined

id recommend permatex if you find it isnt working to well

What glue you using?

Marko wrote:They are straight bits of seal. I have the door seals new in bags and they don't look like these!

Mark.

Mine do, maybe they're after market

brilliant news for where i work, we only have 2 of our 11 cars which are post 1960 so that saves us a lot on money! How will your insurance know the cars are roadworthy? It might not save you as much as you think... :doubt: What sort of a business is it? Mike Its more a rich man's toy shop, we dont...

top one in second pic is door seal

possibly not the t3 this club is used to?

brilliant news for where i work, we only have 2 of our 11 cars which are post 1960 so that saves us a lot on money!

permatax

its for gluing door seals in so it should do the job

if its a dual circ then fronts and rears are separate. So it wont matter if you do front or back first, so long as you do the furthest of the pair first.

But yes its good practice to bleed furthest away first regardless