412LS Garage find *warning photo heavy post*
412LS Garage find *warning photo heavy post*
Morning all,
I came over to chat to a few of you at Stanford Hall this year, and I was talking about a 412LS that I'd been offered, it's been stood in a dry garage since October 1991 and hasn't run since then. It was put away in full running condition and with an MOT.
I finally got to see the car yesterday, so I've included plenty of photos for you all, although some are little poor.
It wheeled out and back in the garage okay, and the engine turned over when the car was pushed in gear. Obviously there would be a lot to do to get it starting and road worthy again, but I'm unsure if I really need another project at the moment, but I'm very, very tempted!
I came over to chat to a few of you at Stanford Hall this year, and I was talking about a 412LS that I'd been offered, it's been stood in a dry garage since October 1991 and hasn't run since then. It was put away in full running condition and with an MOT.
I finally got to see the car yesterday, so I've included plenty of photos for you all, although some are little poor.
It wheeled out and back in the garage okay, and the engine turned over when the car was pushed in gear. Obviously there would be a lot to do to get it starting and road worthy again, but I'm unsure if I really need another project at the moment, but I'm very, very tempted!
- plumcrazee
- Posts: 202
- Joined: 27th September 2006 - 11:53pm
- Location: GREAT BARR, birmingham
Well I sort-of got it started today, however fuel isn't getting to the carbs. If I fill the carbs with petrol from a squeezy bottle, it fires and will tick over for a minute, but no fresh fuel is coming from the tank. I need to check pipes, filters and pump, unfortunately I suspect that the car has a mechanical fuel pump, I presume that only the FI models had an electric pump?
FI models do indeed have an electric pump, what a nightmare finding one of those at short notice turned into, the carb models I learnt today have a mechanical one.
According to Dave they tend to suffer from a problem with "the fuel-pump pushrod length - they wear on Type 4s and then can't get enough stroke to operate the diaphragm properly. "
Hope you get it running soon, fingers crossed mine will be running again in the next couple of days.
According to Dave they tend to suffer from a problem with "the fuel-pump pushrod length - they wear on Type 4s and then can't get enough stroke to operate the diaphragm properly. "
Hope you get it running soon, fingers crossed mine will be running again in the next couple of days.
My 412LS is one of the very last when VW returned to dual carbs, so I need to either work out some way of testing the existing pump, or get hold of a replacement. Does anyone know how easy it is to get a new pump? I know that they must be similar to the T25 air-cooled type, which are a pain to source. Also, are they difficult to swap, saying that perhaps I ought to source a new push-rod first and see what happens?
I think I've answered my own question - a couple of parts websites have confirmed that type 4 mechanical fuel pumps are very difficult to source and recommend converting to an electric pump, the thing is a block-off plate, the pump and a pressure regulator all come to over £100, which I'd rather avoid. I may take off the existing pump and replace the push-rod, are they the same as Beetle? If so, are they the 100mm or 108mm type, or something completely different?
Phone Jane Terry 01303840241 or Jim Bourne 01273400463 - they might measure a good one or be able to supply a second-hand one. The rod is a Type 4 part 021 127 307; pump is 021 127 025A, but try to check this in case it xhanged from Sept 1972 when this parts book dates from.
Having said that, it's likely to be one of very few things. Push rod length, diaphragm, return spring. Maybe there's enough much to stop the pump valves working properly. Don't just go out and buy a new one! They usually unbolt and can be completely dismantled. Haynes shows and describes it OK.
Having said that, it's likely to be one of very few things. Push rod length, diaphragm, return spring. Maybe there's enough much to stop the pump valves working properly. Don't just go out and buy a new one! They usually unbolt and can be completely dismantled. Haynes shows and describes it OK.
Dave.
I looked into the electric pump when my push rod wore. In the end I used an electric pump from a fuel injected beetle because I had one sitting but a facet red (road) pump was rated perfectly within type 4 tollerances for use on my van.
If the car was in use before being stored is it not more likely to be crud in the fuel lines?
There is a small gause around the outlet pipe in the tank which could be so blocked up you are getting no fuel.
If the car was in use before being stored is it not more likely to be crud in the fuel lines?
There is a small gause around the outlet pipe in the tank which could be so blocked up you are getting no fuel.
I will finish it some day!!
Rust free imports direct from California;
www.route9autos.co.uk
The west of Scotland VW club.
http://vwscotclub.co.uk/forum/
Rust free imports direct from California;
www.route9autos.co.uk
The west of Scotland VW club.
http://vwscotclub.co.uk/forum/
Working absolutely fine for me. Once it reaches pressure you can hear it stop pumping so if it was overwhelming the needle valves it would continue to pump.
I will finish it some day!!
Rust free imports direct from California;
www.route9autos.co.uk
The west of Scotland VW club.
http://vwscotclub.co.uk/forum/
Rust free imports direct from California;
www.route9autos.co.uk
The west of Scotland VW club.
http://vwscotclub.co.uk/forum/